We wish you a Happy New Year 2009!!
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
hip report for our imported male Border Collie
Taz has now passed his hip evulation! Cornell U. rated his hip structure as "EXCELLENT". Now that he has passed both eye and hip tests, we may offer stud service to select females in '09. However, our main goal in the new year will be to add some titles to his name. Here is a photo of Taz herding (taken Oct. 08).
We wish you a Happy New Year 2009!!
We wish you a Happy New Year 2009!!
Saturday, October 25, 2008
CERF Eye Exam
Our UK boy "TAZ" passed his CERF eye exam this month. He was previously cleared CEA DNA "Normal" so now both eye tests are complete. At right is a recent photo.
Handsome fellow!
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
website update--new future star
Website updated. See: http://www.bordercolliestud.com Our new Border Collie boy from Scotland U.K. is on the front page...more info on him coming soon! He is from highly versatile UK lines.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Discovering Competitive Obedience
By training your dog with obedience, agility, or even stupid pet tricks, you and your dog can become a team, and develop a wonderful relationship with each other. Your dog may be big or small, young or old, purebred or mixed breed. If you want to do Competitive Obedience, you probably have the most important thing already, the dog. What you will also need is the desire for a closer relationship with that dog, and the will to put in the effort to work with him. A touch of competitive spirit won't hurt either. It's fabulous to have a dog that is well behaved and happy about it. Here is information on Competitive Obedience, and how to find out more about it.
How much work is this?
It depends on what you want, and where you're starting from. You'll get no real training advice here in this essay. But, your dog does need to know who's in charge (it should be you, not him), have basic manners and some socialization. If you have a dog who's lunging at the end of a leash at the dog across the street, you have to get his basic manners in order first. You need this foundation to build on. If you don't have it, go to a class in basic obedience or work with a trainer. This will give you a taste of how to train your dog, and start you in the habit of working with your dog. It can sometimes only take a few minutes of real work a day if you structure your training well and keep at it. You can probably train an average of about 15 minutes a day, in little 2-4 minute pieces while you're out walking or playing, or even sitting around at home. You can do less of course, but your progress will be slower. If you have an older dog with bad habits, it may take longer, and maybe more than one class, but if you are persistent, you will probably succeed. Don't buy into the "can't teach an old dog" stuff, it isn't true! Older dogs have one big advantage over puppies - an attention span. And it will be worth it just to have a civilized canine member of the family.
You must also consider what's in it for you and the dog. If you make it worth his while, he'll be much more likely to enjoy advanced training. This may be using food, toys, games, or simply praise (and plenty of it) when he does a good job. You will also have to be willing to enforce that what you are asking is not optional once you're sure he understands completely what you are asking him. But, the real reward for both of you is the closeness you'll develop with your dog as you become a working team, and your dog practically becomes an extension of you. Your friends will be impressed by good manners and quick response to commands. It really is nice to have a dog that's well mannered and obedient anywhere you go, such as in stores, at people's houses, even to dinner parties where the dog might behave better than the kids!! When I lost my husband, Leilah even went to the mortuary with me several times to make the arrangements. The employees loved her, turns out the place was full of dog lovers! She was an incredible comfort to me, and her training truly helped!
What else can you do with all this training?
You can trial your dog in recognized obedience competitions, called Obedience trials.. At a UKC (United Kennel Club) Novice competition, you will be expected to heel your dog in a "pattern" as told to you by the judge. Your dog is expected to be in the heel position (at your left side, with precision) throughout the maneuvers. You will be asked to do right turns, left turns, about turns, slow, normal, and fast paces, and halts, in any order. The dog should automatically sit when you stop. You will do this both on and off leash. You will also heel your dog , on leash, in a figure 8 pattern around 2 people standing quietly 8 feet apart. You will have 3 stay exercises , the sit, down, and stand for examination. You will also call your dog from a sit stay , and he will jump a jump on his way across the ring to sit in front of you, and at your signal, he will go directly to the heel position and sit down. AKC (American Kennel Club) novice exercises are a bit different with their stay and recall exercises.
After you get a Novice title (the CD or U-CD) you can then advance to the Open (CDX or U-CDX titles) then Utility (UD or U-UD titles). The "U" in front of a title means it's been granted by the United Kennel Club. You can even get a championship on your dog, and compete at regional and national levels if you're good enough, whether he is a mixed breed or not. For all titles except Champion, it takes 3 qualifying scores (called legs). Depending on the kennel club or registry, you may need to do that under 2 or 3 different judges. A qualifying score is at least 170 points out of a perfect 200, and you must at least half the points allowed for any individual exercises. It's really quite possible for the average dog and owner to do all this, and to do it well. You can read about my experience in Our First Year in Obedience
Go to a trial as an observer
Try to find a trial in your area.
UKC Calendar http://www.ukcdogs.com/dogevents/upcoming/index.shtml
AKC Events Search: http://www.akc.org/dic/events/search/
ASCA Calendar: http://www.speakeasy.org/~frankb/ascacalendar/
Another ASCA Calendar http://www.amborusa.org/schedule/obed.htm
AMBOR Calendar (includes UKC, ASCA, and matches too) http://www.amborusa.org/show.htm
You can also find listings for AKC and UKC trials in Dog World Magazine.
It doesn't matter much which type of trial (AKC, UKC or ASCA) you go to at this point, what you need to see is how an obedience dog works. You will see some strange looking things too. You will see dogs who heel while trying to stare their handler in the face, you will see dogs who don't and just cruise alongside their owners, and maybe some dogs who don't really heel at all. You'll see dogs who fly over a jump, and some who barely hop over it, and some who may go around it all together. You may even see handlers who take out their own frustrations on the dog, and you will vow that you will never to do this to your dog. And, you will also see handlers who are overjoyed with their dogs, no matter what. You may also see the teams who are having the time of their lives, each has the full co-operation of the other, and loving it. There will be dogs and handlers of all shapes and sizes, and even the occasional handicapped handler (the dog cannot be lame or completely blind - but the handler can be in a wheelchair).
When observing, do not touch or feed any dog without permission. Do not bring your own dog since non entered dogs are prohibited at most trials, and can distract dogs in the ring. Distracting a dog in the ring will earn you the MOST evil glares from the handler. Some trials require that you stand back from the ring at least 10 feet. Just make sure you do not to attract the attention of any dog in the ring, keep yourself and any kids you bring with you quiet while watching.. You can ask a lot of questions, and you'll get a lot of answers. Try to ask only people who look relaxed, who don't look busy, and who aren't trying to warm up their dogs. Pre ring jitters can get to some people, and they may not have the patience for you at that moment. Obedience people are generally a pretty friendly group, and will answer many of your questions, they usually love to talk about their dogs. At some big shows, they may charge admittance, and there might be interesting vendors, so bring your wallet and do some shopping.
Train your dog?
Although I suppose it's possible to just use a book if you are very diligent and careful, I don't recommend it for the beginner. You will probably want to get a trainer or go to classes.
You might get trainer referrals from the local pet supply store, or your veterinarian. If you are referred to a "pet trainer" (one who trains basic manners and might work with problem dogs, but not a competitive sport like obedience or agility), that person may be able to refer you to a more appropriate trainer. Tell the trainer what you want to do and make sure the trainer has done competitive obedience before. You will want someone who can help you prepare for competition. Here's a link with info on finding a trainer:
Trainers and Behaviorists http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/trainers.htm
It will be very helpful to find a competitive obedience training club. Through them you can get information on trials through their newsletters, and many offer training classes geared towards showing in obedience. You can get trainer referrals too. Most clubs are affiliated with one of the Kennel Clubs, usually AKC or UKC. Some are unaffiliated, and this only means that they will not hold their own sanctioned trials, trials that count towards titles. It's possible that an AKC club may not accept a mixed breed dog in their classes, but unlikely. You would need to call them to check. They often do allow mixed breeds all but official AKC events. Call any local dog club for references for a good trainers and classes. Even if they aren't an obedience club, they'll probably know of one.
AKC clubs lists: http://www.akc.org/dic/clubs/search/club_search.cfm
UKC clubs list: http://www.ukcdogs.com/dogevents/clubs/index.shtml
Most clubs usually hold practice "fun " matches (also known as a show-and-go), where you can try out your dog in the ring style conditions and have a chance to evaluate his training progress, but the rules aren't as strict as in a real trial. They are relatively informal, and don't count towards any titles. You are not allowed to give your dog any correction in the trial ring, but you can at most fun matches. The rings are set up as in a trial, and you can get lots of helpful advice from the "judges" who are usually more experienced club members, but sometime they are real judges. Many clubs also hold regular "workouts" where you can practice with others, but it's not really a class or match. There are exceptions for AMBOR dogs to get legs in matches where there are awards.
Registries
If you are planning to show your dog, you will have to register him with a kennel club. Pedigreed dogs can be registered with the AKC and UKC. They do not have to be neutered, but bitches in heat cannot compete. If your dog looks purebred, but you have no papers, you can get an AKC ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) registration. This is great for rescued dogs. Your dog must be neutered and will not be allowed in conformation classes (the breed ring like the Westminster show), but he must at least look purebred. One of the big advantages of AKC is they seem to have a lot more trials, in more places, than the other registries.
Mixed breeds can be registered with the UKC and AMBOR (American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry), and they must be neutered. UKC recognizes AMBOR as the "parent club" for mixed breeds and will register them on a Limited Permit (LP) basis. This means the dog cannot be entered in the conformation ring. All AMBOR and UKC LP dogs must be neutered.
All dogs registered with AKC, UKC, or AMBOR can also be entered in trials and given titles granted by Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA) as "other breed". The ASCA rules are virtually identical to AKC. AMBOR recognizes ASCA scores, some AKC matches, and other matches for earning legs towards a title. AMBOR also grants a dual title for UKC legs. Check with AMBOR for more information.
UKC Registration info: http://www.ukcdogs.com/rg/rules.shtml
AKC Registration info: http://www.akc.org/registration/index.cfm
AKC Indefinite Listing Privilege http://www.akc.org/registration/ilpex.cfm
AMBOR Membership info: http://www.amborusa.org/meminfo.htm
Ready, Set Go!
Once your dog is trained and registered, you've done your homework on the rules and procedures, and once you've done well in matches, enter a trial and have fun! Good luck! Just remember, the dog doesn't care about titles, but he DOES care about you, and the more fun you have, the more fun your dog will have.
How much work is this?
It depends on what you want, and where you're starting from. You'll get no real training advice here in this essay. But, your dog does need to know who's in charge (it should be you, not him), have basic manners and some socialization. If you have a dog who's lunging at the end of a leash at the dog across the street, you have to get his basic manners in order first. You need this foundation to build on. If you don't have it, go to a class in basic obedience or work with a trainer. This will give you a taste of how to train your dog, and start you in the habit of working with your dog. It can sometimes only take a few minutes of real work a day if you structure your training well and keep at it. You can probably train an average of about 15 minutes a day, in little 2-4 minute pieces while you're out walking or playing, or even sitting around at home. You can do less of course, but your progress will be slower. If you have an older dog with bad habits, it may take longer, and maybe more than one class, but if you are persistent, you will probably succeed. Don't buy into the "can't teach an old dog" stuff, it isn't true! Older dogs have one big advantage over puppies - an attention span. And it will be worth it just to have a civilized canine member of the family.
You must also consider what's in it for you and the dog. If you make it worth his while, he'll be much more likely to enjoy advanced training. This may be using food, toys, games, or simply praise (and plenty of it) when he does a good job. You will also have to be willing to enforce that what you are asking is not optional once you're sure he understands completely what you are asking him. But, the real reward for both of you is the closeness you'll develop with your dog as you become a working team, and your dog practically becomes an extension of you. Your friends will be impressed by good manners and quick response to commands. It really is nice to have a dog that's well mannered and obedient anywhere you go, such as in stores, at people's houses, even to dinner parties where the dog might behave better than the kids!! When I lost my husband, Leilah even went to the mortuary with me several times to make the arrangements. The employees loved her, turns out the place was full of dog lovers! She was an incredible comfort to me, and her training truly helped!
What else can you do with all this training?
You can trial your dog in recognized obedience competitions, called Obedience trials.. At a UKC (United Kennel Club) Novice competition, you will be expected to heel your dog in a "pattern" as told to you by the judge. Your dog is expected to be in the heel position (at your left side, with precision) throughout the maneuvers. You will be asked to do right turns, left turns, about turns, slow, normal, and fast paces, and halts, in any order. The dog should automatically sit when you stop. You will do this both on and off leash. You will also heel your dog , on leash, in a figure 8 pattern around 2 people standing quietly 8 feet apart. You will have 3 stay exercises , the sit, down, and stand for examination. You will also call your dog from a sit stay , and he will jump a jump on his way across the ring to sit in front of you, and at your signal, he will go directly to the heel position and sit down. AKC (American Kennel Club) novice exercises are a bit different with their stay and recall exercises.
After you get a Novice title (the CD or U-CD) you can then advance to the Open (CDX or U-CDX titles) then Utility (UD or U-UD titles). The "U" in front of a title means it's been granted by the United Kennel Club. You can even get a championship on your dog, and compete at regional and national levels if you're good enough, whether he is a mixed breed or not. For all titles except Champion, it takes 3 qualifying scores (called legs). Depending on the kennel club or registry, you may need to do that under 2 or 3 different judges. A qualifying score is at least 170 points out of a perfect 200, and you must at least half the points allowed for any individual exercises. It's really quite possible for the average dog and owner to do all this, and to do it well. You can read about my experience in Our First Year in Obedience
Go to a trial as an observer
Try to find a trial in your area.
UKC Calendar http://www.ukcdogs.com/dogevents/upcoming/index.shtml
AKC Events Search: http://www.akc.org/dic/events/search/
ASCA Calendar: http://www.speakeasy.org/~frankb/ascacalendar/
Another ASCA Calendar http://www.amborusa.org/schedule/obed.htm
AMBOR Calendar (includes UKC, ASCA, and matches too) http://www.amborusa.org/show.htm
You can also find listings for AKC and UKC trials in Dog World Magazine.
It doesn't matter much which type of trial (AKC, UKC or ASCA) you go to at this point, what you need to see is how an obedience dog works. You will see some strange looking things too. You will see dogs who heel while trying to stare their handler in the face, you will see dogs who don't and just cruise alongside their owners, and maybe some dogs who don't really heel at all. You'll see dogs who fly over a jump, and some who barely hop over it, and some who may go around it all together. You may even see handlers who take out their own frustrations on the dog, and you will vow that you will never to do this to your dog. And, you will also see handlers who are overjoyed with their dogs, no matter what. You may also see the teams who are having the time of their lives, each has the full co-operation of the other, and loving it. There will be dogs and handlers of all shapes and sizes, and even the occasional handicapped handler (the dog cannot be lame or completely blind - but the handler can be in a wheelchair).
When observing, do not touch or feed any dog without permission. Do not bring your own dog since non entered dogs are prohibited at most trials, and can distract dogs in the ring. Distracting a dog in the ring will earn you the MOST evil glares from the handler. Some trials require that you stand back from the ring at least 10 feet. Just make sure you do not to attract the attention of any dog in the ring, keep yourself and any kids you bring with you quiet while watching.. You can ask a lot of questions, and you'll get a lot of answers. Try to ask only people who look relaxed, who don't look busy, and who aren't trying to warm up their dogs. Pre ring jitters can get to some people, and they may not have the patience for you at that moment. Obedience people are generally a pretty friendly group, and will answer many of your questions, they usually love to talk about their dogs. At some big shows, they may charge admittance, and there might be interesting vendors, so bring your wallet and do some shopping.
Train your dog?
Although I suppose it's possible to just use a book if you are very diligent and careful, I don't recommend it for the beginner. You will probably want to get a trainer or go to classes.
You might get trainer referrals from the local pet supply store, or your veterinarian. If you are referred to a "pet trainer" (one who trains basic manners and might work with problem dogs, but not a competitive sport like obedience or agility), that person may be able to refer you to a more appropriate trainer. Tell the trainer what you want to do and make sure the trainer has done competitive obedience before. You will want someone who can help you prepare for competition. Here's a link with info on finding a trainer:
Trainers and Behaviorists http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/trainers.htm
It will be very helpful to find a competitive obedience training club. Through them you can get information on trials through their newsletters, and many offer training classes geared towards showing in obedience. You can get trainer referrals too. Most clubs are affiliated with one of the Kennel Clubs, usually AKC or UKC. Some are unaffiliated, and this only means that they will not hold their own sanctioned trials, trials that count towards titles. It's possible that an AKC club may not accept a mixed breed dog in their classes, but unlikely. You would need to call them to check. They often do allow mixed breeds all but official AKC events. Call any local dog club for references for a good trainers and classes. Even if they aren't an obedience club, they'll probably know of one.
AKC clubs lists: http://www.akc.org/dic/clubs/search/club_search.cfm
UKC clubs list: http://www.ukcdogs.com/dogevents/clubs/index.shtml
Most clubs usually hold practice "fun " matches (also known as a show-and-go), where you can try out your dog in the ring style conditions and have a chance to evaluate his training progress, but the rules aren't as strict as in a real trial. They are relatively informal, and don't count towards any titles. You are not allowed to give your dog any correction in the trial ring, but you can at most fun matches. The rings are set up as in a trial, and you can get lots of helpful advice from the "judges" who are usually more experienced club members, but sometime they are real judges. Many clubs also hold regular "workouts" where you can practice with others, but it's not really a class or match. There are exceptions for AMBOR dogs to get legs in matches where there are awards.
Registries
If you are planning to show your dog, you will have to register him with a kennel club. Pedigreed dogs can be registered with the AKC and UKC. They do not have to be neutered, but bitches in heat cannot compete. If your dog looks purebred, but you have no papers, you can get an AKC ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) registration. This is great for rescued dogs. Your dog must be neutered and will not be allowed in conformation classes (the breed ring like the Westminster show), but he must at least look purebred. One of the big advantages of AKC is they seem to have a lot more trials, in more places, than the other registries.
Mixed breeds can be registered with the UKC and AMBOR (American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry), and they must be neutered. UKC recognizes AMBOR as the "parent club" for mixed breeds and will register them on a Limited Permit (LP) basis. This means the dog cannot be entered in the conformation ring. All AMBOR and UKC LP dogs must be neutered.
All dogs registered with AKC, UKC, or AMBOR can also be entered in trials and given titles granted by Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA) as "other breed". The ASCA rules are virtually identical to AKC. AMBOR recognizes ASCA scores, some AKC matches, and other matches for earning legs towards a title. AMBOR also grants a dual title for UKC legs. Check with AMBOR for more information.
UKC Registration info: http://www.ukcdogs.com/rg/rules.shtml
AKC Registration info: http://www.akc.org/registration/index.cfm
AKC Indefinite Listing Privilege http://www.akc.org/registration/ilpex.cfm
AMBOR Membership info: http://www.amborusa.org/meminfo.htm
Ready, Set Go!
Once your dog is trained and registered, you've done your homework on the rules and procedures, and once you've done well in matches, enter a trial and have fun! Good luck! Just remember, the dog doesn't care about titles, but he DOES care about you, and the more fun you have, the more fun your dog will have.
Obedience & Herding: Can You Train For Both?
Numerous individuals train their dogs in many performance sports and use them on their farm as well. It isn’t uncommon for some to compete in agility, obedience and herding at the same time with the same dogs, plus use them on a daily basis on their farm. Some feel the key is keeping your tones of voice and vocabulary very clear. Plus, dogs can tell what you are doing by your physical set up..."I’ve never had a dog look for sheep on an agility course!"
One herding instructor advises against the obedience training in which a strong "watch me" is taught and proofed extensively. Especially in the loose-eyed breeds this builds a very strong handler focus in the dog. She also advises against extensive distraction training. It has a very strong tendency to make many dogs think that the sheep (or livestock) are a "set up" situation and the dogs tend to ‘keep in check’ what they really want to do (i.e., chase, circle, etc.) and have difficulty in focusing on the stock.
The basic obedience commands: sit, come, down, heel and stay are good to teach. In general, the consensus from various herding fanciers is they would rather start a dog on stock BEFORE ring competition obedience is started. The dog then develops a better "stock sense" and also confidence. Many herding enthusiasts feel that overall obedience is enhanced by stock work. The dogs tend to listen much better and stock work tends to improve their confidence level.
General observations are that the dogs that have extensive obedience training prior to their introduction to stock showed less of a tendency to ‘relax’ around stock, and to 'let go' and start to just have fun herding.
In summary, one well-known herding ‘guru’ (and also licensed judge) said its true that a good dog needs to be obedient, but the key to all of this is their relationship with each other. Obedience is not the most important thing. A down is not the most important thing. In the perfect world you would have a blending of natural instinct (ability), ability to listen and the ability to respond to direction. Obviously instinct with no direction isn’t particularly useful except with those one in a million dogs that seem to be born working correctly.
The point is that to get the best possible working stock dog, you first need to develop the dog’s correct instincts and develop a proper attitude so that the dog is ready to listen and learn. A dog with a proper attitude is generally rather obedient, but that isn’t what makes correct attitude. A dog must have a correct attitude because he has to figure out what is the best way to do things; and that the right way is to his (the dogs) advantage. Such a dog will still do things right even when everything else seems to fall apart.
A dog that is made to go right will most likely fall apart when under heavy pressure. That is why an old-time BC trainer kept saying, ‘ask the dog’. It is a nit picky line between asking and telling, but my problem with my dogs did make a turn around when I finally got the idea of asking rather than ordering.
When training my dogs I set up the training experience in such a way that I allow the dog to think that it is teaching itself...that the right way is the dog’s idea.
One herding instructor advises against the obedience training in which a strong "watch me" is taught and proofed extensively. Especially in the loose-eyed breeds this builds a very strong handler focus in the dog. She also advises against extensive distraction training. It has a very strong tendency to make many dogs think that the sheep (or livestock) are a "set up" situation and the dogs tend to ‘keep in check’ what they really want to do (i.e., chase, circle, etc.) and have difficulty in focusing on the stock.
The basic obedience commands: sit, come, down, heel and stay are good to teach. In general, the consensus from various herding fanciers is they would rather start a dog on stock BEFORE ring competition obedience is started. The dog then develops a better "stock sense" and also confidence. Many herding enthusiasts feel that overall obedience is enhanced by stock work. The dogs tend to listen much better and stock work tends to improve their confidence level.
General observations are that the dogs that have extensive obedience training prior to their introduction to stock showed less of a tendency to ‘relax’ around stock, and to 'let go' and start to just have fun herding.
In summary, one well-known herding ‘guru’ (and also licensed judge) said its true that a good dog needs to be obedient, but the key to all of this is their relationship with each other. Obedience is not the most important thing. A down is not the most important thing. In the perfect world you would have a blending of natural instinct (ability), ability to listen and the ability to respond to direction. Obviously instinct with no direction isn’t particularly useful except with those one in a million dogs that seem to be born working correctly.
The point is that to get the best possible working stock dog, you first need to develop the dog’s correct instincts and develop a proper attitude so that the dog is ready to listen and learn. A dog with a proper attitude is generally rather obedient, but that isn’t what makes correct attitude. A dog must have a correct attitude because he has to figure out what is the best way to do things; and that the right way is to his (the dogs) advantage. Such a dog will still do things right even when everything else seems to fall apart.
A dog that is made to go right will most likely fall apart when under heavy pressure. That is why an old-time BC trainer kept saying, ‘ask the dog’. It is a nit picky line between asking and telling, but my problem with my dogs did make a turn around when I finally got the idea of asking rather than ordering.
When training my dogs I set up the training experience in such a way that I allow the dog to think that it is teaching itself...that the right way is the dog’s idea.
The Best Christmas Puppy Comes in a Crate
More puppies are purchased at Christmas than at any other time of year. In most areas of the country, however, the winter months are the least convenient to add a puppy to the family because the weather overhead as well as underfoot makes the chore of housebreaking difficult.
However, there is a way to housebreak a puppy quicker and easier - - any time of year. And that's where the greatest invention of the dog industry - the dog crate - comes in.
To the uninitiated, "crate" is a euphemism for "cage," and that spells cruelty. But those who purchase a crate before they pick up their puppy quickly discover they've not only welcomed their pet with a security blanket but have bought themselves the peace of mind that makes having a puppy a joy on Christmas day and every day thereafter. Here's why:
The dog crate is, above all, the dog's den that he would otherwise have to improvise in a crateless home. It's for sleeping, not soiling. So, its use is invaluable during housebreaking. When you're busy, or must leave the house, it assures the dog's safety as well as the safety of your home and everything in it. The portable crate also makes car trips easy on you, the dog, and the people at your destination. In fact, the dog crate is so practical and indispensable, I wonder how a dog owner can survive without one.
Providing the Security and Comfort of a Den
In the wild, dogs are den animals who seek small cave-like enclosures just big enough to crawl into, turn around, and curl up or stretch out against its contours. House dogs without their own crates do the next best thing - they curl up under a table or in your favorite chair, crawl under a bed or behind the sofa, or find another relatively small space that has comfortable, secure "walls."
It is only natural then, that your new puppy would love his own crate - - a place where children can't bother him, where no one will disturb him, and where he's not in the way.
Although plastic crates are better for air travel, the most versatile dog crate is the fold- up "wire" crate with an easily cleaned metal tray floor. The wire crate provides a well- ventilated shelter from which your puppy can watch everything that goes on in his part of the house.
Crates are available from various manufacturers and in various styles, but no matter which you select, make sure your purchase is big enough for your ADULT dog to stand, turn around and comfortable lie down in. A crate that's too small will cramp your dog; one too large will not provide the safety and security your dog seeks at home or in the car. Your pup's breeder can advise you on crate size. Make a partition so the puppy just fits and move the partition back as he grows.
For the dog owner, the crate not only eliminates worry about where to keep your pup when you're busy or not at home, it eliminates a messy, newspaper-line kitchen or utility room.
Not long ago, a friend telephoned about locating a puppy for his young daughter. Knowing his household's schedule, children in school and both parents working, I suggested he consider purchasing a crate before he picked up the puppy. I extolled the crate's virtues - - its den-like qualities, facilitating housebreaking, and its providing a safe place for the puppy and a feeling of ease for the owners.
Several weeks later, my friend called again, to say he'd located a pup for his daughter, but he hadn't bothered to acquire a crate. Instead, they'd decided to enclose the puppy in the bathroom when they were away from the house! Not surprisingly, the dog objected by shredding the bathroom walls and door. Nevertheless, my friend did not "give in" to a crate for several months. Now, the crate is a permanent part of their den's furnishings.
For a number of reasons, a bathroom or other enclosed room is a poor substitute for having a dog crate in a room where the pup can be with the family - - in the den or the kitchen area for example, with easy access to an outside door. There, he can watch and learn about his family's activities. He gets plenty of air, and he can see into other areas of the house and even be aware of outdoor space. He does not feel shut out or uncomfortable; he will not hurt himself or damage the house. He's not in a stressful situation and neither are you.
Introducing the Puppy to His Crate
Once you've found a suitable spot for the crate, you can begin to accustom your puppy to it.
The crate must always be a haven for your puppy. It is for his life, not just housebreaking. It is his den, and should NEVER be used as punishment. For the pup's safety, remove all collars before placing him in the crate. Put a favorite toy or Nylabone in the crate. Place the pup in, talk to him, telling him how wonderful he is. If he barks or cries, withhold your praise until he stops. Then, praise him lavishly and remove him from the crate. If he's reluctant at first, show him a puppy biscuit, toss it into the back of the crate, and help him to find it. Give him lots of praise. Serve the pup his meals in the crate.
In other words, make crating a positive experience. The dog learns by repetition and association. Let him learn that the crate is a happy place, and that he's a g-o-o-o-o-d dog while he's in it and quiet. He'll soon wander into it by himself when he's ready for a nap!
A young puppy from 7 weeks of age can be left in his crate for several hours while you are away from the house. As your dog matures, he can safely be crated for a longer period of time. The dog, who has no concept of time, will sleep most, if not all, the time you're away.
Remember, before you leave, make sure your dog is not wearing a collar of any kind. Even though it may not seem possible, collars can catch on a crate. Also, leave your dog only a "safe" toy. Now you can be sure he's safe. And so are your walls, doors, rugs, shoes, bedspreads and everything else. Go, and enjoy!!
Crating and Traveling
Many families like to vacation with their pets or take them along on a day's outing. But how often do you see cars on the highway with a dog pacing from window to window, from seat to seat? No matter the size of the pup or full-grown dog, a crate is the best place for a dog while traveling.
A loose dog can cause a serious accident. You can lose concentration on driving if you have to help settle him down, or he can cause you to lose control by jumping on your lap to get closer to you or to get a better look at the dog he saw out the driver's window.
Just like people, the dog can be injured by a falling object or by flying forward if you have occasion to slam on your brakes. So, the crate becomes your dog's safety belt. When you stop for lunch, to shop, to set up camp, or to arrange for lodging, the dog can remain in the car with the windows or doors open without being endangered by the summer heat or by dashing out onto a busy street. Or you may tick the crate in the car's shade or under a tree while you enjoy your picnic or visit with friends. And many motels allow pets that are crated in the room while their owners are at dinner (and whose owners clean up after their dog outside.)
In these and countless other instances, the crate makes traveling with your dog as enjoyable as having his company at home. And your dog is always comfortable and secure in his own surroundings.
Slant-front crates are perfect for station wagons. Most hatchbacks will nicely hold a medium-size square front crate. And many cars with seats that fold down can easily house crates of any shape.
And Other Uses
The crate has other uses as well. If your dog is ill or has injured himself, he must be kept quiet. His crate is the perfect place to recuperate. If company comes and a guest feels uneasy about dogs, Towser will happily stay in his crate. If an overnight guest arrives with his dog and you want to keep the two separated, you can accommodate the other dog by keeping yours crated.
Consider purchasing a dog crate - - whatever the brand - - before you pick up your new puppy. It will help make owning a growing dog the delight such and experience is supposed to be.
However, there is a way to housebreak a puppy quicker and easier - - any time of year. And that's where the greatest invention of the dog industry - the dog crate - comes in.
To the uninitiated, "crate" is a euphemism for "cage," and that spells cruelty. But those who purchase a crate before they pick up their puppy quickly discover they've not only welcomed their pet with a security blanket but have bought themselves the peace of mind that makes having a puppy a joy on Christmas day and every day thereafter. Here's why:
The dog crate is, above all, the dog's den that he would otherwise have to improvise in a crateless home. It's for sleeping, not soiling. So, its use is invaluable during housebreaking. When you're busy, or must leave the house, it assures the dog's safety as well as the safety of your home and everything in it. The portable crate also makes car trips easy on you, the dog, and the people at your destination. In fact, the dog crate is so practical and indispensable, I wonder how a dog owner can survive without one.
Providing the Security and Comfort of a Den
In the wild, dogs are den animals who seek small cave-like enclosures just big enough to crawl into, turn around, and curl up or stretch out against its contours. House dogs without their own crates do the next best thing - they curl up under a table or in your favorite chair, crawl under a bed or behind the sofa, or find another relatively small space that has comfortable, secure "walls."
It is only natural then, that your new puppy would love his own crate - - a place where children can't bother him, where no one will disturb him, and where he's not in the way.
Although plastic crates are better for air travel, the most versatile dog crate is the fold- up "wire" crate with an easily cleaned metal tray floor. The wire crate provides a well- ventilated shelter from which your puppy can watch everything that goes on in his part of the house.
Crates are available from various manufacturers and in various styles, but no matter which you select, make sure your purchase is big enough for your ADULT dog to stand, turn around and comfortable lie down in. A crate that's too small will cramp your dog; one too large will not provide the safety and security your dog seeks at home or in the car. Your pup's breeder can advise you on crate size. Make a partition so the puppy just fits and move the partition back as he grows.
For the dog owner, the crate not only eliminates worry about where to keep your pup when you're busy or not at home, it eliminates a messy, newspaper-line kitchen or utility room.
Not long ago, a friend telephoned about locating a puppy for his young daughter. Knowing his household's schedule, children in school and both parents working, I suggested he consider purchasing a crate before he picked up the puppy. I extolled the crate's virtues - - its den-like qualities, facilitating housebreaking, and its providing a safe place for the puppy and a feeling of ease for the owners.
Several weeks later, my friend called again, to say he'd located a pup for his daughter, but he hadn't bothered to acquire a crate. Instead, they'd decided to enclose the puppy in the bathroom when they were away from the house! Not surprisingly, the dog objected by shredding the bathroom walls and door. Nevertheless, my friend did not "give in" to a crate for several months. Now, the crate is a permanent part of their den's furnishings.
For a number of reasons, a bathroom or other enclosed room is a poor substitute for having a dog crate in a room where the pup can be with the family - - in the den or the kitchen area for example, with easy access to an outside door. There, he can watch and learn about his family's activities. He gets plenty of air, and he can see into other areas of the house and even be aware of outdoor space. He does not feel shut out or uncomfortable; he will not hurt himself or damage the house. He's not in a stressful situation and neither are you.
Introducing the Puppy to His Crate
Once you've found a suitable spot for the crate, you can begin to accustom your puppy to it.
The crate must always be a haven for your puppy. It is for his life, not just housebreaking. It is his den, and should NEVER be used as punishment. For the pup's safety, remove all collars before placing him in the crate. Put a favorite toy or Nylabone in the crate. Place the pup in, talk to him, telling him how wonderful he is. If he barks or cries, withhold your praise until he stops. Then, praise him lavishly and remove him from the crate. If he's reluctant at first, show him a puppy biscuit, toss it into the back of the crate, and help him to find it. Give him lots of praise. Serve the pup his meals in the crate.
In other words, make crating a positive experience. The dog learns by repetition and association. Let him learn that the crate is a happy place, and that he's a g-o-o-o-o-d dog while he's in it and quiet. He'll soon wander into it by himself when he's ready for a nap!
A young puppy from 7 weeks of age can be left in his crate for several hours while you are away from the house. As your dog matures, he can safely be crated for a longer period of time. The dog, who has no concept of time, will sleep most, if not all, the time you're away.
Remember, before you leave, make sure your dog is not wearing a collar of any kind. Even though it may not seem possible, collars can catch on a crate. Also, leave your dog only a "safe" toy. Now you can be sure he's safe. And so are your walls, doors, rugs, shoes, bedspreads and everything else. Go, and enjoy!!
Crating and Traveling
Many families like to vacation with their pets or take them along on a day's outing. But how often do you see cars on the highway with a dog pacing from window to window, from seat to seat? No matter the size of the pup or full-grown dog, a crate is the best place for a dog while traveling.
A loose dog can cause a serious accident. You can lose concentration on driving if you have to help settle him down, or he can cause you to lose control by jumping on your lap to get closer to you or to get a better look at the dog he saw out the driver's window.
Just like people, the dog can be injured by a falling object or by flying forward if you have occasion to slam on your brakes. So, the crate becomes your dog's safety belt. When you stop for lunch, to shop, to set up camp, or to arrange for lodging, the dog can remain in the car with the windows or doors open without being endangered by the summer heat or by dashing out onto a busy street. Or you may tick the crate in the car's shade or under a tree while you enjoy your picnic or visit with friends. And many motels allow pets that are crated in the room while their owners are at dinner (and whose owners clean up after their dog outside.)
In these and countless other instances, the crate makes traveling with your dog as enjoyable as having his company at home. And your dog is always comfortable and secure in his own surroundings.
Slant-front crates are perfect for station wagons. Most hatchbacks will nicely hold a medium-size square front crate. And many cars with seats that fold down can easily house crates of any shape.
And Other Uses
The crate has other uses as well. If your dog is ill or has injured himself, he must be kept quiet. His crate is the perfect place to recuperate. If company comes and a guest feels uneasy about dogs, Towser will happily stay in his crate. If an overnight guest arrives with his dog and you want to keep the two separated, you can accommodate the other dog by keeping yours crated.
Consider purchasing a dog crate - - whatever the brand - - before you pick up your new puppy. It will help make owning a growing dog the delight such and experience is supposed to be.
The Border Collie...
...All that matters is his brain, temperament, reactions to work and the consistentcy of his performance behind sheep. If he as a cast, a wide gather, a strong eye to single out a requierd sheep; if he moves freely, never barks, never bites; if he is prepared to take orders, is affectinate towards those he knows, regards his master as a sort of god and the sheep pastures as the equivalent of heaven, then and only then can he be called a first class specimen of his breed. His outline has been modelled by the bleak mountain run with its gullies, screes, stone walls, wind, rain snow and miles of heather, fern and rock. Centuries of running on wide hills have envolved a small lightly built animal with a light well co-ordinated frame and a stamina for work mentally and physical beyond anything else on four legs. Despite the apparent insistence on breeding for working qualities alone, most Border Collies are in fact of a handsome appearance. If the dog is well-marked in black and white in the right places and is generally pleasant to look at, it is of course so much the better, but a collie which a layman might find striking handsome would look ugly and riducolous to the shepherd if his head and tail were held high. The dogs "intelligence quotient" is shown more clearly in the carriage of his tail than by any other physical sigh, and it is perhaps a pity that we cannot test a child's IQ so simple and with such a degree of accuracy. In any case the plain mismarked miscoloured sheepdog whose breeding is right can give a stylish performance which is fascinating and beautiful and will easily surpass the performance of the most splendid looking dog with less good breeding.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
